Mahane Yehuda - not just fruit and vegetables

Mahane Yehuda, also referred to as the "shuk" - the market - (not to be confused with the Arab souk in the old city), is one of my favourite places to visit in Jerusalem. Last Thursday night I decided to check out the beer and sample some of the night life of this iconic place.

The Largest Garlic Cloves I've Seen!

Mahane Yehuda is not actually the market, rather a small neighbourhood established across the Jaffa Road named for Yehuda Navon the brother of one of the neighbourhood's founders.

The Light Rail Stop

The market wasn't planned but grew organically from its humble beginnings at the end of the 19th century when local Arab farmers sold their produce to passengers disembarking from the carriage on its final leg from the Jaffa Port to Jaffa Gate.

Freshly Ground Tehina from Halva King

As the new city began to develop along the Jaffa Road, the area became more populous. By the 1920's the British decided to organise the random stalls on its current permanent site.

Olives - my favourite!

New Jewish immigrants opened stalls and to this day areas are known by the origin of its founders - the Iraqi Market and Georgian Market to name just two.

Dried Fruit and Nuts

Ramshackled structures have undergone renewal and, since the 1980's, the market has been gradually upgraded. Now you can find not only the freshest fruit and vegetables in town but also boutique clothing, wines and cheese and fun places to eat.

Challot for Shabbat

Beer Bazaar - local beers and friendly people

Not Just Beer

The shuk is transformed on Thursday nights after the stalls close. Tables are set out along the market streets and the young at heart enjoy food and beer into the wee hours.



All in all a wonderful cultural and gastronomic experience not to be missed. Make sure it's on your itinerary!

A Hidden Gem in the Old City - "Wujoud"

Jerusalem is filled with hidden gems. Last week, I visited, together with a number of other female guides, Wujoud - "Presence" in Arabic - a museum and cultural centre of Palestinian heritage situated just a few steps down David Street the main market street from Jaffa Gate. Established only two years ago, Wujoud offers visitors glimpses of Palestinian life in the 19th and early 20th centuries.

The inspiration behind this project is Nora Kort, a member of the Greek Orthodox Church, who grew up in a cosmopolitan Jerusalem family. She is an amazing entrepreneur and the driving force behind a number of Old City projects aimed at assisting the Palestinian community and in particular the women.

My group of "girl guides" were inspired by Ms. Kort, her determination against all odds - city bureaucracy and the indifference and even animosity of local shopkeepers - and her belief that Wujoud can become a place where people of all faiths can meet others and share stories.

The project began in 2009 when the Greek Othodox Church donated a 650-year old building to the Arab Orthodox Society of Myrrh Bearers. A group of engineers and architects were commissioned to rehabilitate the building which had been sitting in disrepair for most of its existence and have turned it into a beautiful cultural centre.

Wujoud is situated in the heart of the Christian Quarter overlooking Hezekiah's Pool or the Pool of the Patriarchs which was an important source of water for the city during the 1st century. Now dry, the city has cleaned up the area and Nora has ambitious plans for this site.

View of Hezekiah's Pool from the roof of Wujoud



(Left: Nora Kort, the Holy Sepulchre Church can be seen in the background)

Girl Guides enjoying the museum

(pictures: Carol Ann Bernheim)

If you have a few moments to spare, stop by Wujoud for a cup of coffee or tea and visit the small ethno-museum in this beautiful building. Donations are gratefully received!

Other projects supported by Nora include: the Melia Center, established in 1992 by the Arab Orthodox Society, which gives Palestinian women an outlet to sell their embroidered goods and earn an income. This is situated close to the New Gate.

Adjacent to this is Bint al Balad - or "Daughter of the Country",  which prepares traditional Palestinian dishes including pies, pastries, and salads. In addition to the shop itself, the employees provide catering services for parties and other celebrations. This and the embroidery shop constitute the only stores in Jerusalem staffed entirely by women.



A few of my favourite things

Beyond the tourist shops and restaurants, the Old City is filled with hole-in-the-wall eateries offering authentic and tasty local delights which add to the fun of wandering around the alleyways.

One of my favourite areas are the three Crusader market streets which make up the Cardo of the ancient Roman-Byzantine city.  These are Butchers' or Meat Market, Spice Market and Engravers' Market.

Butchers' Market

Descending from Jaffa Gate along David Street to the bottom of the hill, make a left on Shuk HaTzorfim (engravers' street) to Arafat Restaurant. The only sign is a large pot of freshly-made hummus and a tiny cave filled with hungry customers. There is a daily special which usually lasts until 1 p.m. so get there early.

For those of a strong disposition, take the first left along Butchers' Street - Shuk HaLahamim in Arabic and Katzavim in Hebrew - walk past animal heads and entrails and walk almost to the end. On the left side is Abu Taher, a small restaurant run by Taher and his male cooks. Ask to see the daily specials simmering on the stove. The hummus is also good.

Za'atar spice mountain, spice market

Walk to the end of Shuk HaAttarin, Spice Market - the most aromatic of the three streets which contains another secret - grilled lamb kebabs. For over 70 years the family has been making this delicacy served in a pita with grilled tomatoes and onions for only 9 shekels. The tiny cafe is usually crowded so take it to go and eat it around the corner near the Holy Sepulchre Church and watch the world go by.