Christmas in Jerusalem 2021

Sadly there are no overseas tourists visiting Jerusalem this Christmas. However plenty of locals were out and about last Saturday evening when I joined a friend to check out the Christmas lights at this holiday time. We weren't disappointed. Walking from the Russian Compound we popped into the Holy Trinity Church where we were enchanted by the heavenly singing.

From there we wandered through the City Hall complex to the Notre Dame Pilgrim Guesthouse. Opened at the end of the 19th century, this magnificent building faces New Gate where a local Christmas Market was in full flow. The view from the roof is spectacular. I was surprised to discover this gem after almost 40 years of living in the city. The spectacular views from the roof show the Chritmas tree in the courtyard below and the Christmas market just inside the New Gate across the road.

After tasting some of the delcacies on offer in the market, we continued through the alleyways of the Christian Quarter to the home of Jerusalem's Santa Claus Issah Kassisieh, who has turned his family home into a Christmas wonderland. We didn't visit this time but many others waited patiently for their special visit.

CHRISTMAS 2020: JERUSALEM'S SANTA

The Old City is very quiet this year. However, if you walk down St. Peter's Street from the New Gate, and continue down the winding alleyways of the Christian Quarter to the junction of St. Peter's Street and the Latin Patriarchate Road, you will soon hit "Santa Lane" where this December you can find the festively decorated Santa's House.

Issa Kassissieh, outside Santa's House
December 2020

For three years, Palestinian Catholic and well-know former local basketball player Issa (Jesus) Kassissieh, has been dressing up as the Jerusalem Santa and decorating his family's traditional 14th century home.

This year Santa is needed more than ever. 

Kassassieh, 42, says, "I try to bring happiness, even when I can't give a hug. When I talk to the children I see they need this in this situation. A smile, a nice word - they are very happy for that. Anyone can put on a red suit, but if you don't do it from the heart, you can't bring the miracle of Santa."

In better years, he has given his Santa a local twist by trading in the reindeer for a borrowed camel he rides in the Old City to the delight of locals and tourists alike.

Santa on his Camel

People of all religions visit. "I don't care who they are. My message is love and peace. Santa is for everybody."

WISHING EVERYONE A HAPPY AND HEALTHY 2021!

(Adapted from an article by Judith Sudilovsky, Catholic News Service)

Restoration Work in Holy Sepulcher Completed

Two weeks before Easter, the edicule of the Holy Sepulchre has been revealed to the public in all its glory for the first time since 1809. I was touring the church on the day it was reopened. Here are some of the pictures that I took.

The Restored Edicule

 

Since May of 2016, the edicule covering the tomb of Jesus underwent major restoration for the first time in over 200 years. Even though the structure is surrounded by scaffolding the church has remained open to visitors. Until this week that is.

Light over the Edicule

In the past few days the church has been closed for 60 hours to enable major archeological investigations of the tomb itself.

You can read more in the link below and watch the video about what has been revealed under the stone covering the tomb.

http://news.nationalgeographic.com/2016/10/jesus-tomb-opened-church-holy-sepulchre/

A Hidden Gem in the Old City - "Wujoud"

Jerusalem is filled with hidden gems. Last week, I visited, together with a number of other female guides, Wujoud - "Presence" in Arabic - a museum and cultural centre of Palestinian heritage situated just a few steps down David Street the main market street from Jaffa Gate. Established only two years ago, Wujoud offers visitors glimpses of Palestinian life in the 19th and early 20th centuries.

The inspiration behind this project is Nora Kort, a member of the Greek Orthodox Church, who grew up in a cosmopolitan Jerusalem family. She is an amazing entrepreneur and the driving force behind a number of Old City projects aimed at assisting the Palestinian community and in particular the women.

My group of "girl guides" were inspired by Ms. Kort, her determination against all odds - city bureaucracy and the indifference and even animosity of local shopkeepers - and her belief that Wujoud can become a place where people of all faiths can meet others and share stories.

The project began in 2009 when the Greek Othodox Church donated a 650-year old building to the Arab Orthodox Society of Myrrh Bearers. A group of engineers and architects were commissioned to rehabilitate the building which had been sitting in disrepair for most of its existence and have turned it into a beautiful cultural centre.

Wujoud is situated in the heart of the Christian Quarter overlooking Hezekiah's Pool or the Pool of the Patriarchs which was an important source of water for the city during the 1st century. Now dry, the city has cleaned up the area and Nora has ambitious plans for this site.

View of Hezekiah's Pool from the roof of Wujoud



(Left: Nora Kort, the Holy Sepulchre Church can be seen in the background)

Girl Guides enjoying the museum

(pictures: Carol Ann Bernheim)

If you have a few moments to spare, stop by Wujoud for a cup of coffee or tea and visit the small ethno-museum in this beautiful building. Donations are gratefully received!

Other projects supported by Nora include: the Melia Center, established in 1992 by the Arab Orthodox Society, which gives Palestinian women an outlet to sell their embroidered goods and earn an income. This is situated close to the New Gate.

Adjacent to this is Bint al Balad - or "Daughter of the Country",  which prepares traditional Palestinian dishes including pies, pastries, and salads. In addition to the shop itself, the employees provide catering services for parties and other celebrations. This and the embroidery shop constitute the only stores in Jerusalem staffed entirely by women.



Old City Personalities - My Mate Yousef

If you happen to be walking along Christian Quarter Road and pass by number 30, stop in and say hello to my friend Yousef Natshe whom I have known for over twenty years. He comes from the esteemed Natshe family of Hebron. To this day his family still produces the hand-blown glass for which the town is famous..
Born in 1958 in the village of Silwan just south of the Old City, Yousef is one of 8 children - 5 boys and three girls. He learned his trade through his late father, a fabric merchant.  Despite hardships - the family lost two homes in Katamon and Baka and a shop in Mahane Yehuda in west Jerusalem after 1948 - he is always positive and has a ready smile.

Yousef has owned his store on the Christian Quarter Road since 2003 but has traded in the Old City since 1973. A father of 4, he lives with his wife, three girls and a boy in the village of Anata close to the northern Jewish neighborhood of French Hill.
While I was sitting with him and drinking a refreshing glass of mint tea, I asked him what his dream was. He told me that he'd like to live on a mountain, somewhere green away from the city.
Feel free to pop in and view some of the rugs and fabrics. His honesty, fair prices and good quality have made him popular with his loyal, local clientele.  There is no pressure and you will always be greeted with a warm smile especially if you tell him that I sent you!