Comments from Recent Visitors

"Madeleine is refreshingly quirky and that is a wonderful quality. That is in addition to her extraordinary wealth of knowledge and openness."

"Madeleine gave us an objective view of the people and places we see on the news."

"Madeleine kept our children, 10, 13, 15 yrs interested and engaged (as only a former teacher can), and her depth of knowledge was welcome by the adults in the group."

"Madeleine gracefully navigated complex issues of faith and culture and we came away with a much better perspective of Jerusalem through 3,000 years of history"

"Madeleine has a talent for listening to what we're interested in and crafting an itinerary that when experienced, flows perfectly while she is open to being flexible and the serendipity of discovery"

"Madeleine was incredible - a huge wealth of information,

"We were a diverse group - different ages, religions, athletic abilities - and Madeleine managed to accommodate us all."

Madeleine was extremely professional with a wonderful sense of humour"







Saturday, July 21, 2018

Through His Father's Eye - Elia Photo - Christian Quarter

Learning of the recent passing of Kevork Kahvedjiah, a kind and gentle soul, I wanted to update this post.  His son Elie continues the family tradition.

Kevork surrounded by his father's pictures
Photo: Aliza Orent

Kevork Kahvedjian was raised in the Armenian Quarter of the Old City and inherited his father’s photography business. His father fled Armenia and was raised in an orphanage in Nazareth. After discovering a trove of his father’s negatives in an attic, he published “Through My Father’s Eyes” a unique collection of photographs showing everyday life in Jerusalem and throughout the Holy Land as captured by his father’s camera since 1924. Recently, the photographs were used to guide the restoration of the historic Hurva Synagogue in the Jewish Quarter, which was destroyed by the Jordanians in 1948.. 

A visit to Elia Photo on El Khanka Street is a must for anyone visiting Jerusalem. Even more so if you are interested in photography and historical photographs.


Kevork Kahvedjian of Blessed Memory

Sunday, January 28, 2018

Austria in Jerusalem - the Austrian Pilgrims' Hospice

The Austrian Pilgrims' Hospice, strategically placed in the Muslim Quarter at the junction of the Via Dolorosa and El Wad Street (HaGai), is one of my favourite places to visit while touring the old city.

Austrian Hospice in the 19th Century
The Austrian Hospice is one of a number of  historical buildings erected by European powers towards the end of the 19th century as the 400-year Ottoman rule was coming to a close.
After the foundation stone was laid on New Year's Eve 1856 the Hospice became one of the city's leading ecclesiastical guesthouses before being taken over by other parties. It served as an orphanage, internment camp, officers' school and military hospital. In 1985, with assistance from Jerusalem Mayor Teddy Kollek, the building was returned to its original function and is currently run by local and Austrian staff and volunteers.

One of its most famous guests was Kaiser Franz Josef who stayed here in 1869 on his way to the opening of the Suez Canal. In addition to being Emperor of Austria, King of Hungary and monarch of other states in the Austro-Hungarian Empire, he also took the title of  "King of Jerusalem". 
A mosaic in the charming chapel depicts him pointing the way to the Holy City leading his new Crusade.


Built in the style of Vienna's Ringstrasse palaces of the 19th century, the pilgrims' hospice is a wonderful place to enjoy a coffee and strudel in the Viennese Cafe or sip a beer in the well-tended gardens.

View from the roof
The Austrian Hospice offers an oasis of tranquility in the old city and affords a wonderful panoramic view from its rooftop. Ring the doorbell to leave the Middle Eastern bazaar and enter the grandeur of the House of Habsburg - a real Jerusalem secret!
There is a fee of 5 shekels to visit the rooftop panorama.